Trier

This weekend we did Trier, the oldest city in Germany. We didn't know where we were going until a couple hours before we left, so this one was a little less organized than most.

I really wanted to go on a river cruise, so I lugged everyone to the port despite the typical German weather. It looked like we might have the boat to ourselves until, a couple minutes before our scheduled departure, a group of about sixty German tourists walked down the ramp.

As we were waiting to board, Carson was antsy and had a little flip-out. Fortunately we had anticipated this and had used the double criss-cross method to keep the little Houdini in his stroller. Then we noticed the stares. Everyone from this group seemed to be staring at Carson throwing his tantrum. At first I thought 'what? Haven't you heard of the terrible-twos?' Then I realized they all had strollers too...and all the children had special needs. They were trying to figure out what affliction Carson suffered from. So we took Carson on the special needs cruise, and he was the recipient of lots of special attention from the other passengers. Sometimes I am so thankful for the language barrier... I couldn't make this stuff up.

Enjoying a Weizen on the River Cruise

Our hotel was a find in the middle of town, perfectly situated to enjoy the sights. Much too nice for our little crew, but we indulged in the restaurant, bar, and spa anyway. My only complaint - breakfast. What is with German breakfast? It is as if a list of no less than 43 things exists which must be included in a German breakfast - canned cherries, sliced ham, Nutella - and yet none of them are appetizing! I wish I was kidding. So on Sunday we decided to skip the hotel breakfast and find something on our own. Bad call. Turns out absolutely nothing is open on Sunday's...and then, just as we were about to give up, we saw the Pannackefuessen (Pancake House, I think). It was like a beacon of breakfast hope. We ordered our pancakes and waited anxiously...but they did not taste like any pancakes I have ever had. They were a cross between bread and cake, with no syrup, and when we asked for syrup we were given jam. Then we spied the 'American Pancakes' on the menu. We swallowed our pride and ordered. It was no Cracker Barrel, but thank God for simple pleasures.

Enjoying our Riesling

Carson and Walt sharing a coffee

The Porta Negra - the Roman Gate that was once used to defend the city

Our 'American' Pancakes

The Black Forest

We set out for the Black Forest like most of our adventures, with little more than a hotel reservation and a GPS that works about half the time. We started at Fruedenstadt, the town that Walt's family immigrated to the U.S. from 3 generations ago. Growing up he had always heard about the Ehman(n) Bakery in Germany, so we wanted to check it out. Well, there is no Ehman Bakery. At least not that we found. Now, a little more research might have been in order, cause we didn't know the name for Bakery in German, but no one that we randomly accosted on the street had heard of it either. There are several Ehman's in the phonebook, but after we ask them 'spechen si enlisch?' and they say 'nein', that is that. So, we ate at a brauhaus and hit the road.

Appreciating his German roots

Appreciating Walt's German roots

The Schwarzwaldhochstrasse is a famous stretch of road between Freudenstadt and Baden-Baden that is known for breathtaking views of the Black Forest. This was the visibility the day we made this particular drive. Not ideal...but to make things more interesting, the ride was punctuated by calls of 'Mama, tee!' from the backseat. Yes, we are in the midst of potty-training, and got to check out several rest stops along the way. Oh the joys...

Baden-Baden is a historic spa town where Emperor Caracalla once bathed and the wealthy come to get away. Of course, for us it was not quite so glamorous, but we enjoyed the walking district and the beautiful parks.

Sunday morning we decided to fit one more sight into our agenda, so we pulled out the GPS and hit attractions. Walt had spied a castle ruin on one of the hills, so when we saw

'Schloss Ruin' on the GPS we decided to 'Go!' Our first clue should have been when the GPS said to 'Turn right on road' (no name), but we went a little further before we realized we were on a walking path. Oops. So, we went on an improptu Volksmarch (German for 'hike where we tell you to'). It doesn't have quite the same relaxing quality when you are pushing a stroller, but we had a ball. Never did find those castle ruins though!

Look, they issue blankets!

Well, one of them is happy...

Yeah, I'm that mom.

Playing in the leaves

Cash enjoying his first Volksmarch

The guys

P.S. No, it is not your imagination. I did not become a better photographer. We got a better camera...and I LOVE it!

Salzburg

I was pretty embarrassed when we arrived in Salzburg and I realized I didn't actually know what language they spoke. Since our hotel was in the walking district, I had to ask for permission to enter, and I didn't know how to even say hello. Well, turns out they speak Bavarian German (of course!), and the greeting is 'Grüß Gott,' just in case you ever need to know. If you know how to pronounce this, please share.

Salzburg is an incredible city, the birthplace of Mozart and the Sound of Music. We toured the city in our typical haphazard fashion, bouncing from the Palace Gardens to the Modern Art Museum to the Augustiner Beer Garden...gotta love that juxtaposition. But, it was perfect.

This used to be plywood

We went with another couple, the Mettler's, who I think we will be doing a lot of traveling with. We have the same interests (good food, local drinks, and cheap fun) and the same obstacles (they have a sixteen month old daughter). Deciphering how to travel with kids is always fun.

You have to get your own mugs...

And what do you eat with your beer? Fish on a stick of course!

Alright, alright, or you can have brats, pork, pretzels, and pickles. Your call.

I missed my calling as a beer wench

I think that there should be a rating system for hotels that indicate

how accommodating they are toward toddlers. Can a pack 'n play fit in the bathroom? Is there a separate room, cause that would be even better. How thick are the walls? Bidets are a definite negative. I would even be willing to pay a fee for my kids. I am the first to admit, by not charging for kids under five, hotels are giving themselves the short straw. We left breakfast at our cozy little hotel in Salzburg and Carson had tainted enough food for a couple of adults, although I am not sure he actually ate any of it, we managed to break the booth, and Carson said 'ciao' to everyone in the dining room, nevermind that we were in Austria.

Bike parking is apparently at a premium

The famed Salzburg eggs...made of actual egg shells!

People actual wear this stuff! I kept wanting to tip them...don't think that would have gone over well though.

Piedmont

Fall in Italy means Piedmont. The grapes are ready to harvest, the elusive truffle mushrooms are in season and the leaves are just starting to turn...we couldn't resist!

We stayed in agriturismos (read: agricultural tourism), which meant two things. Eating fresh, incredible food that was literally grown/produced out our window and sleeping closer to cows than I ever had. A great way to travel, and adds a little more of a sense of adventure, like we didn't have enough going for us already.

We travelled all over the Barolo and Barbaresco regions, tasting as many delicacies along the way as we could stand. We bought truffle mushrooms, truffle oil, and truffle filled pasta. We drove through countless vineyards and stopped along the road to taste wine and pick grapes.

We also attended Slow Food's Cheese 2009 in Bra, the largest cheese festival in the World. It was a ridiculous amount of cheese, seriously. It went on forever, and we were cheesed out well before we made it to all of the booths. There was an incredible variety, some of the most beautiful cheese, and we bought a nice, pungent sampling.

One of the many cheese makers...or is it farmer?

Cheese from Kenya - strange color, but tasted good!

Yes, those are gourmet...wait for it...beans! Beans in a jar.

Cheese wrapped in herbs...who knew cheese could be so beautiful

We visited as many regional enotecas (wine cellars) as we could fit into our agenda, and again returned with a car full of wine.

Montferrato Enoteca - we were the only ones there!

Decisions, decisions

The joys of buying wine with a toddler

One of the agriturismos...obviously, they do not have the same fire codes here

Breakfast in the garden

Hot Springs at Aqui Therme...see the steam?

Modern gelato shop, because everything here is designed and not just built

A flower-shaped bush...why not?